Thursday 1 January 2015

The To-Do List

Happy New Year and all that.
This post is a way of collecting all last years Open Projects in one place,  throwing a couple of other aims, and putting some strategy in place. At the end of each month I'll report back, reflect and mentally kick my own arse into gear.

Here's the list, in some order of personal excitement.

Tick 1 -The Joe Brown Project
Location: Twll Mawr
Requirements: Dry rock, Determination, Courage, and possibly a Rope Gun.
The Sketch: Wait until spring and coerce the Keen Calum.

Tick 2 - Neverfall
Location: Neverneverland
Requirements: About 6 pads, some spotters, some courage, some skin
The Sketch: Warm up at Suncharm ledge, take some abb kit if some of the holds are too loose/sharp

Tick 3 - Nant Gwrtheyrn Bloc and DWS
Location: Nant Gwrtheyrn
Requirements: Summer! the bloc needs low tide and better hip flexibility for the last line, the DWS requires courage, and a few changes of kit.
The Sketch: Wait until Summer, and assemble a team of like minded souls.

Tick 4 - The Super Prow
Location: Cwmffynnon
Requirements: Top rope kit, a brush, an increase of personal ability
The Sketch: I'm not looking for a personal ascent off top rope, although I'd been keen to assess the feasibility for others, but I want to get the direct and make good links on the true line, we'll give the visit a whole day (get the bus or a lift?) and take pads for satellite boulders.

Tick 5 - The Tosheroon
Location: Benllech
Requirements: old tough jacket, stout socks and lots of tape, 2 mats for the top out, warm conditions for barnacle wrangling. a Low tide below 1.5-2m.
The Sketch: Wait until spring then get Ben psyched again.

Tick 6 - Porth Howel
Location: Llithfaen
Requirements: A few mats, some company, some dry weather for some of the walls
The Sketch: Just keen to re-visit with a crowd, if I get a bit better (as planned) the low traverse may go, also have a cool trad project to try which requires a low tide.

Tick 7 - The Cube
Location: Dyffryn Mymbyr
Requirements: about 6 mats and a couple of spotters, a bit more ability
The Sketch: There are 2 lines left to do, and they are both above the most complicated landing; the Backside arete (left arete of Manly Groove, right arete of the Cube, climbed on its left side) and Gleaming the cube - the direct through the steepness and up the slab. The arete is totally possible now given suitable fall management, the direct is proper boss, and will require steelier fingers.

Tick 8 - Marchlyn Grit
Location: Marchlyn Mawr reservoir
Requirements: Pads and probably a spotter, a low tide(!) for some of the satellite boulders
The Sketch: I really want to climb the central stand, the sit is well beyond me, but some feasibility studies for next year won't hurt

Tick 9 - Trixibelle
Location: Dyffryn Mymbyr
Requirements: Pads, a belayed spotter for the moves after the crux dyno, a hike up in ability.
The Sketch: Start with some solo visits, take some abb kit for cleaning and feasibility studies, when happy return with a crew.

Tick 10 - The Old Pier Prow
Location: Trefor
Requirements: Low tide, possibly spring tide to get a better pebble level, healthy elbows, dry windy (warm?) conditions. A rise in ability.
The Sketch: I need to be sleek and steely, and I'm not sure when the best conditions would be. Access is quick though so maybe a series of test visits once I've beaten myself into shape.

Tick 11 - Caedafydd Boulders
Location: Nantmor
Requirements: Many pads, a good spotter / patio team.
The Sketch: I'm not putting myself forward for the Koyamada roof, but I have a little line in a backwater to deal with. The main thing is to get some psyche and buzz going for the place. a visit will be made at some point with a enthusiastic crew.

Tick 12 - James' Boulder
Location: Cwm y Glo
Requirements: Myself in peak form
The Sketch: get myself in peak form and do it!

Tick 13 - The Whale of Galedffrwd
Location: Mynydd Llandegai
Requirements: A bit of dry weather to lower the stream, a spotter, some good sloper conditions
The Sketch: This might be an Autumn project.

Tick 14 - Craig Bach Cwm Uchaf
Location: Cwm Uchaf, Llanberis Pass
Requirements: A bit vague this one as its just something I spotted from afar, but it certainly looks intriguing...
The Sketch: A walk with Abb kit, possibly coincide with a look at this.


So there it is, a full list for one year, but with lesser pressure targets such as more obscure spots, and possibly some classics at Tremadog, and Gogarth (do my first Big G route...) to fill the gaps I expect to be happily occupied in 2015.

Have a good one!


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