Thursday, 15 June 2017

Somewhat Monsieur Mangetout

So Here I am, ostensibly a boulderer, looking for bouldering projects, abet often highball ones. Alright I also like a bit of adventure, a bit of wild trad, some thrutch and totter.

... But a Sport Climber?

For the first time since the Beast in Me, I've got the drill out. It was supposed to be a highball project, but I soon decided that the difficulty at height that it presented was too much like Yves Klein.

So the little highball project became a little bolty proj. A little plaything.

Actually its a Monster.

Its only 6-7 meters, but it overhangs by just under a meter and only has about 3 horizontal crimps on it. I placed two bolts for runners, and a lower off bolt. It was around this point I realised It was pointlessly hard. I mean, surely a project is something you can play on, enjoy, and get done in a reasonable time frame?
I've had two sessions on it now, I filmed the first, waste of time that was. I ended up chopping a few stills out (below) and ditching the footage. I wasn't climbing, I was clawing. 
Second visit was on a windy day as midge season is upon us. Unfortunately the bay is sheltered, and the midges descended like 1000 Tom Randall's demanding "One More Rep!"
Driven by these micro drill sergeants I grappled once more. Surely its too hard? I should give it away... But everyone needs a challenge.
Rather than drown under the immensity of eating a Cessna 150 Airplane, I endeavored to break the scale of the task into bite size pieces:
It seems..
7A+ to 7B to the first bolt
7A+ to 7B to the second bolt
7A+ to 7B to the lower off

Ok that didn't help.
Individual body positions in each section.
first is 9, I've held one so Far
Second is 11, I've held three so Far
Third is 15, I've held nine so Far

Total Hand Moves is 17
I've managed:
0 in first section
1 in Second section
4 in third section

Something to work on then Once the Midges subside.
I feel rather like a prisoner of war who's stolen a Spoon
All quite Fun
Project: "Swamp Thing" is on

Midgy bitesies

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